November 2020 ~ Men's Fashion

Monday 30 November 2020

Model’s Mask Free Photo Sums Up Paris’ Latest Dilemma

November 30, 2020DMARGE, fashion, mens fasionNo comments

Compared to its usual gin-tonic clinks and mad motorist honks, Paris is down and out right now. This year has seen 'cruel' new cafe rules, strict curfews and an eerie new reality. The city known for its glamour, defiance and hedonism has been forced to mask up and stay home.

Much like luxury brands have in recent years been trying to figure out how to be at once 'devil may care' and 'woke,' the world at large is now having to reconsider the point where individual rights and free thought become selfish, in the face of a massive communal need to Do The Right Thing.

Paris having the reputation it does, the city is arguably a focal point for this debate. Enter: the following photo. Taken 10 weeks ago (half way through September) and depicting a German model posing in front of Paris' iconic Cafe de Flore, the image was noticed recently by DMARGE.

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A post shared by CARINA ZAVLINE (@carina)

The photo shows the model not wearing a mask, while cafe patrons behind enjoyed the day (some wearing masks, some not). While DMARGE does not presume to know whether the model then sat down with or without a mask on, whether the shoot was ordained by authorities, or whether she sat down at all, the image represents the concept of defiance vs. reality quite well.

According to a BBC article from August 28th, "Wearing a face mask in public has become mandatory across Paris and several surrounding areas, amid a surge in Covid-19 cases in France. On Friday the country recorded 7,379 new infections – its highest number since early May."

"The number of 'red zones' where the virus is in active circulation has risen from two to 21."

This is something France may have to wrestle with for some time. It also relates to a discussion DMARGE had in October with photographer Kiran Ridley whose 'before and after' curfew photos made waves on Getty.

Ridley told DMARGE in October (when the curfew came into effect), “[Some] people are either complacent or they are just choosing to ignore [the curfew].”

“The curfew has been in place for a week now” Kiran said at the time. The first night it came in, Kiran told DMARGE, “9pm came and went and there were still a lot of people about.”

“I went to Champs Elysees at about 10pm at night because I wanted to take a picture of that but there were still a lot of cars going up and down.”

“I think takeaways are still open.”

“Traffic is a lot lighter [than it would otherwise be] but 9pm is a bit fuzzy – a bit loose – restaurant workers and people who have work exemptions are still around.”

“I drove past a bar on Thursday night and it was packed at 8pm.”

“Strange in that respect.”

Having said that, Ridley's 'before and after' photos also show the curfew has been far from completely ineffective, at least in the brute sense.

[caption id="attachment_277603" align="alignnone" width="920"] Closed bars and cafes are pictured on empty streets on the first night of the Coronavirus curfew on October 17, 2020 in Paris, France. The nightly curfew, announced by President Macron in a national address on Wednesday, will take effect in nine cities across France between 9 p.m. and 6 a.m in an attempt to curb the second wave of Covid-19 across France. (Photo by Kiran Ridley/Getty Images).[/caption]

Ridley also told DMARGE “people are determined for it not to affect their everyday lives,” and that during the day Paris in October looked much the same as Paris in September.

On top of that, Ridley said, in his opinion, there could be something of a reactionary element to the laissez faire attitude he observed in the early stages of the curfew being introduced.

“Lockdown here in March and April was very tough, tightly regulated; very hard – more than the UK experienced in their lockdown.”

“There’s a real reluctance from the government and people to go back into another lockdown.”

Ridley also said the areas of Paris that are usually very touristy are struggling the most.

[caption id="attachment_277604" align="alignnone" width="920"] A packed bar on the Rue de Seine in Paris despite the recent rising in Covid-19 infections throughout France on September 13, 2020. (Photo by Kiran Ridley/Getty Images).[/caption]

“Areas of Paris that don’t have a large local neighbourhood are really struggling – Notre Dame, 5th and 6th arrondissement, etc.”

“Local neighbourhoods and the bars there are thriving.”

French citizens have endured a roller-coaster year. In Spring, as the virus first began to explode, rules were strict. Then, in a bid to stimulate the economy, regulations were lifted in Summer after case numbers dropped.

Now both confirmed cases – and the relevant restrictions to counter them – have risen once again.

Louis Vuitton’s Digital Moves Evidence That Luxury Brands Are Finally Taking E-Commerce Seriously

November 30, 2020DMARGE, fashion, mens fasionNo comments

Louis Vuitton is widely regarded as the world's most valuable luxury brand, and forms the cornerstone of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, one of the world's biggest luxury goods conglomerates. While the French company's stable is a veritable 'who's who' of the luxury world – with Bulgari, Dior, Hublot and Zenith just some of the many names under the LVMH umbrella – there's no doubt that Louis Vuitton is the jewel in its crown. It's literally in their name.

But uneasy is the head that wears a crown. The first half of the year saw LVMH take a huge hit to their bottom line thanks to The Bat Kiss, and while they've mostly recovered now on the cusp of 2021, they can't be complacent if they want to survive in a post-COVID world.

One of the biggest business impacts of The Pandemic is that it's highlighted just how important e-commerce has become. Luxury brands have been laggards in this field: a combination of tradition and arrogance. Luxury thrives on exclusivity; a luxurious in-store experience; and luxury brands are notoriously controlling about their image. But the future is online – which is why LVMH's latest 'cabinet reshuffle' shows how even luxury brands are being forced to sit up and take e-commerce seriously.

With their chief digital officer Ian Rogers stepping down, LVMH has announced a new “chief omnichannel officer” role at the group level, elevating Louis Vuitton Vice President Michael David to the position, Business of Fashion reports.

"The shake-up comes as online luxury sales surge due to intermittent store closures since the coronavirus pandemic. For boutiques that remain open, online support features such as providing information about items’ availability, click-and-collect ordering and payments, or booking appointments to try on products have become key to driving traffic," they relate.

While it's easy to laugh at such a blatantly corporate-speak title like “chief omnichannel officer”, it's a signal that LVMH are trying to future-proof their business.

[caption id="attachment_277585" align="alignnone" width="614"] Image: Timeless Taste[/caption]

The reality is that 2020 just accelerated trends that were already in motion before COVID – more and more consumers are going to move online, because the convenience factor of e-commerce outweighs even the most luxurious of brick-and-mortar experiences. The key for luxury brands is making sure their online sales presence is just as 'luxurious' as their in-store experience.

Australian luxury watch retailer Kennedy is a perfect example of this. Their new website is not only sumptuously designed – reflecting the exclusivity of their physical boutiques – but they offer an unprecedented level of service for online shoppers, including personal secured delivery, free of charge. Kennedy are unlikely to close their boutiques any time soon, but by treating e-commerce as an opportunity rather than an afterthought, they've set themselves up for success.

While LVMH's brands hardly have substandard online presences – the TAG Heuer website stands out in particular thanks to its clever interactive watch visualisations – there's definitely room for improvement. Time will tell how (or if) LVMH will evolve when it comes to e-commerce. More importantly, LVMH will act as a bellwether for other luxury groups. Just as they set the pace when it comes to luxury, perhaps they will set the pace when it comes to luxury e-commerce.

2020 has been a momentous year for LVMH with the sale of iconic Australian bootmaker R.M. Williams to Western Australian mining magnate Andrew "Twiggy" Forrest; the acquisition of French wine brands Château d’Esclans and Château du Galoupet, hoping to capitalise on the current popularity of rosé; the successful opening of a new Louis Vuitton factory in Texas (attended by US President Donald Trump) and the high-profile yet fraught $15.8 billion takeover of American luxury giant Tiffany & Co.

Clearly, these money moves have been good for business: LVMH Chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault recently became the world's second-richest person (after Amazon's Jeff Bezos and overtaking Microsoft's Bill Gates) thanks to LVMH's surging share price, CNBC reports.

Qantas’ New Repatriation Flights To Frankfurt & Paris Have One Surprising Feature

November 30, 2020DMARGE, fashion, mens fasionNo comments

News broke last week that Qantas is launching another round of expatriation flights to bring home some of the Australians stuck overseas.

The ABC confirmed Qantas planes will head to France and Germany to scoop up passengers this month.

According to the national broadcaster, "Some Australians have received an email from the Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade (DFAT) that says there will be limited seats available on the flights."

"The new flights are on top of the current repatriation flights that have brought Australians home from India and London."

Foreign Minister Marise Payne has also said Qantas will fly to more countries soon, with the ABC reporting her saying, "There are more to follow over the coming weeks from both New Delhi, London and other locations."

As for the cost of the repatriation flights (something that has come under huge scrutiny this year), “DFAT has now organized two Qantas flights in December, one from Germany, the other from France. Australians must make their own way there, and the cost of a ticket is about (AUD) $2000,” it was said on the ABC's morning program last Friday.

However, these flights will not just be bringing people home, it appears. It has been reported by Executive Traveller that – while DFAT is helping co-ordinate the passage of Australians flying home from Frankfurt and Paris – "Qantas remains free to sell commercial fares on each flight's outbound leg from Australia."

Though surprising on face value, economically it makes sense. Though most Australians need government permission to travel overseas, those who have been granted it may find these flights useful (and potentially cheaper than some of the other options right now).

It was also revealed on the ABC's morning show that all (repatriating) passengers will be required to get a COVID-19 test no more than two days before the flight leaves. Then, on arrival in Australia, each passenger must undergo 14-days of quarantine at the Howard Springs quarantine center outside Darwin in northern Australia.

Simple Flying reports ten repatriation flights will run "over the southern summer period" having been told by a Qantas spokesperson "three will depart from London, three from New Delhi, two from Frankfurt, and one each from Paris and Chennai."

"Qantas’ 787 Dreamliners will operate all services, and all flights will have strict safety protocols in place for passengers and crew."

Miner’s ‘On Site’ Pledge Reveals Scary Truth About Australia’s FIFO Culture

November 29, 2020DMARGE, fashion, mens fasionNo comments

While virtually all industries and Australians this year have been adversely affected by The Bat Kiss, some have had it tougher than others.

For example, the fashion industry has been hit particularly hard, and with many Aussies continuing to work from home even after restrictions have lifted, many are questioning if the demand for corporate fashion will continue to drop off. Conversely, the property market has continued to stay incredibly heated, despite the dire economic conditions.

One industry that's seen mixed fortunes has been the mining industry. One of the biggest drivers of the Australian economy, the industry is heavily reliant on 'fly-in, fly-out' (FIFO) workers. Because many of Australia's active mines are far from towns and cities, miners are flown out to the site and work for a relatively short period of time before flying back to recuperate at home. It's a cheaper alternative to relocating employees and their families to somewhere near the worksite and having to provide more permanent accommodation.

FIFO is already a tough lifestyle: being on an isolated worksite for weeks at a time without your family, friends or the comfort of home is a challenge. COVID-19 has added to that burden – not only are many miners on casual or part-time contracts, but airlines serving the industry have had to pause operations or enforce social distancing on flights. The alternative? Less staff on-site, or longer periods in-between home leave.

As a whole, the mining industry has weathered 2020 better than most. FIFO workers haven't had to deal with quite as strict restrictions as other Australians have: Australia's biggest export industry is 'too big to fail' for our state and federal governments, Australian Financial Review relates. But that doesn't mean things aren't still tough for miners, COVID or not.

Two weeks ago, a recent Reddit thread on /r/Australia about a group of miners supporting Movember went viral. Donating as part of a team, there's a variety of different pledges from the group: some are growing the classic Movember 'mo, some are hosting events, one dude's even shaving off his 15-year-old dreadlocks, which is what initially caught our eye.

But one of the other pledges, which superficially seems rather trivial, actually unearths (pardon the pun) one of the biggest challenges about working in the Australian mining industry. The pledge? "I am going alcohol-free on-site for November to support men's health."

Some Redditors were quick to point out how lame the pledge seemed, until some other commenters chimed in with a few home truths.

"Working away from home and staying 'on-site' away from your home and family is the single most depressing thing I've ever done," one related.

"I don't think many people appreciate how hard it would be to get through that stretch without a drink."

Another thought the Movember supporter "is doing an admirable thing... can't be easy to be dry in a mining town."

One put it more succinctly: "challenges are different for everyone".

According to an ABC Rural article from 2017, nearly a quarter of Aussie miners have a drink before work. A Redditor in the thread explained that miners "will drink to a precise science leaving the pub at 10pm in case of a breathalyser starting shift the next morning," and the practice of '9 before 9' is commonplace.

While the overconsumption of alcohol comes with its own physical and mental health impacts, there's no doubt that drinking responsibly can be a source of comfort and solace, especially when in the rough-and-tumble, isolating world of FIFO mining.

The question is this: do mining companies, and the broader public, really do enough to support miners with their mental health?

You could extend this out to other Australians who work in challenging conditions or have unusual hours. Shift workers, health professionals, military personnel, teachers... The list goes on.

What we can certainly say is that it's admirable that these miners are getting behind men's health in the way they have. Cheers to them.

Incredible Video Shows How Far Australian House Prices Have Risen Since 1970

November 29, 2020DMARGE, fashion, mens fasionNo comments

We may think the excess of the ancient Egyptians – burying live cats and all – disgusting in the cold light of (modern) day. But sacrificing millions to The Alter Of Ego is not as far removed a concept as you think.

Especially not to Sydneysiders in 2020.

It's a well-documented fact Australians spend crazy money on houses. Though there are some rational reasons for this (see: Sydney Man's Unbearable Experience Reveals The Perils Of Moving Too Far Away From The City) there is little doubt Sydney still has a particularly Pharoah-esque attitude to property.

Of course, there are cheaper areas outside the main hubs. But by and large there is a strong culture of expected homeownership all over Australia.

This runs counter to countries like Spain where – in parts – poor economic conditions have swathes of the population not even considering buying, and where 'renting 'til you die' is – for many – seen as normal rather than a moral failing due to an inability to control one's Avocado Toast Addiction.

Whether you put it down to culture or economics, experts agree Australia is in a super cycle of debt which is momentarily pierced every now and then, but always propped up before any major correction occurs (so far anyway).

The result? Soulless neo modern architecture (and houses that look like nuclear power stations) selling for stupid sums, and reports like this Yahoo Finance one, which show Sydney is not only the most unaffordable market to enter in Australia but, by certain metrics, “more expensive than New York, London, and Singapore.”

All the while, Sydney’s median income is actually lower than cities like New York’s.

Awkward or fair enough? The following 'racing graph' of median income to house price ratios from 1970 to 2020, recently posted to the r/AusFinance Reddit community, and which claims to have been based on RBA and ABS statistics may help you make up your mind.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wEcBgIHMJi8

Interestingly enough, in the year the graph starts, 1970, the average house cost under 5 times annual salary. Not bad at all... and how times have changed.

"This chart looks at the ratio between historical house prices and median income (pre-tax) over the last 50 years," the Reddit user who posted the chart explained.

"In Sydney, for example, we can see that back in 1970, an average house cost only 4.5 times median annual income. Today that number is over 12, meaning that (all other things being equal) you're paying interest to the bank for an extra 7.5 years longer than you would have been 50 years ago."

"Oh, and I should add that not all cities have data going back to 1970 - some pop in as late as the mid 80's (I'm looking at you, Darwin)."

Some commenters pointed out the graph was not perfect. One wrote, "Thanks! Be interested to see it based on the cost of finance too. Think that is a better reflection of the cost of home ownership."

"Yeah, we have to remember that back then interest rates were 15 to 20% so it was still a 30 year term."

Another commented: "While this is the purchase price and I generally agree with the notion of what’s being told here......what about interest rates and the relative on going serviceability of loans? Repayment spendings vs household income throughout the life of the loan for instance."

To this, the author of the thread responded: "Yeah, it's a tough one. Back in 80's rates got as high as 18% or something, so even though the house itself (i.e. the principle) was way more affordable, the interest rate would have absolutely killed you... I'm going to add interest rates to my next video."

Stay tuned, and – if you want a house – keep saving.

Real Reason Behind Tasmania’s Whisky Producing Success Revealed

November 29, 2020DMARGE, fashion, mens fasionNo comments

Australia is on the cusp of an alcohol renaissance.

At the moment, it's our gin makers who are enjoying their time in the sun, with distillers like Four Pillars, Archie Rose and Kangaroo Island Distillery garnering wide-spread acclaim for their quality. While wine may have long since eclipsed beer as our poison of choice Down Under, the quality of Australian beer has improved enormously in the 21st century, with independent breweries like Sydney's Young Henrys, Canberra's BentSpoke Brewing Co. and Matso's in Broome at the forefront of innovation in the industry. And of course, Australian wine is tip-top. But you already knew that.

Yet it's one Australian state more than any other that's fuelled Australia's journey of alcohol innovation. Specifically, Tasmania: Australia's southernmost, smallest and least-populated state, isolated from the rest of the country by the Bass Strait.

Australia punches well above its weight when it comes to producing world-class alcohol, and Tasmania punches harder still. Despite only having a population of just over half a million and isolated by both latitude and the ocean from the rest of the country, Tasmania has – for many years, too – been one of the country's leading destinations for quality alcohol. From the beautiful surrounds and tasty stouts of the Cascade Brewery in South Hobart to the oddball (yet critically acclaimed) sheep whey vodka and gin of Birchs Bay's Hartshorn Distillery, it's a booze-lovers' paradise.

But it's one spirit that's laid the groundwork for Tasmania's success more than any other: whisky. Tasmania has the most distilleries of any state in Australia by far, with over 22 whisky distilleries calling the Apple Isle home. And to focus in even further, much of this is thanks to Lark Distillery. Its founder, Bill Lark, is widely considered the father of craft whisky in the country and is one of the few non-Scottish or Irish inductees into the Whisky Hall of Fame. Lark has been producing world-class whisky for almost three decades and has helped turn Tasmania – and by extension Australia – into a whisky powerhouse.

How has one distillery helped transform Tassie into what it is today? DMARGE sat down with Lark's Managing Director Geoff Bainbridge, who explained that it's not just thanks to the climate, which is particularly suited to whisky production, but also thanks to the culture that Bill Lark and other Tasmanians have helped cultivate.

"The trite answer to 'why does Tasmania make such good whisky' is to say that it's thanks to the climate or the water. Those things help, for sure, but water's water. You can make claims about how pure the water is and so on but the mainland's got pure water too."

"What it's thanks to is a culture of excellence, and a willingness to collaborate. First it was us versus the mainland, now it's us versus the world."

Lark's commitment to excellence and innovation isn't just hot air, either. Lark was awarded a record number of accolades at the International Wine and Spirits Competition (IWSC) this year, including two gold medals and its highest ever score (96 points) for their Muscat Cask Single Malt. They were also nominated for one of the industry’s most prestigious awards, the IWSC Worldwide Whiskey Producer of the Year: one of only four global nominees.

[caption id="attachment_277500" align="alignnone" width="920"] The Lark team celebrate their success at this year's IWSC. Image: Lark Distillery[/caption]

You only have to look to some of their most recent releases to see how their collaborative spirit is put into action, such as their Limited Release Christmas Cask. First, a local patisserie selects Tasmanian red wine casks to fill with fruit jus, used for making their Christmas fruit mince pies. Then Lark takes those casks and fill them up with whisky, the spicy jus that's impregnated the wood of the casks filling the whisky with a wonderful holiday flavour.

Similarly, their Rare Cask PARA50 features single malt that's been finished in 50-year-old casks that once held Seppeltsfield Para Vintage Tawny – collaborating with the storied South Australian winery on the first of what's sure to be a successful Rare Cask series. Limited to only 825 bottles, they're already flying off the shelves. It's no surprise, either. It tastes like liquid gold, and is just as investment-worthy...

Bainbridge, who previously spent nine years working for Foster's Group and notably co-founded Australian fast-food success story Grill'd, has big plans for Lark. He's taken a real hands-on approach at working with venues, taking Lark's philosophy of building genuine, collaborative friendships to the hospitality space – including overseas, a space that Lark traditionally hasn't played in. His approach has already seen success: Lark Distilling Co's share price has almost doubled since the beginning of the pandemic in March, Australian Financial Review reports.

It's hard to argue with Lark's success, as well as how valuable of a role model they've been to the Tasmanian (and Australian) alcohol industry. The challenge will be whether or not Lark can continue to stay true to their roots; their vision, while bringing Lark to the world, and Tasmania's other players with them.

"It's all in the pursuit of creating and celebrating the purest expression of Tasmanian whisky," he relates.

If you want some Lark for yourself, you can check out their online store or head on into Dan Murphy's.

Salt Bae Shows Off Genius Workout Hack For Shredded Abdominals

November 29, 2020DMARGE, fashion, mens fasionNo comments

The internet’s sexiest butcher just revealed a workout hack which could be your ticket to abdominals of steel.

That hack? Adding resistance bands to your sit up routine.

Confused? Hear us out.

The butcher turned restauranter, fitness freak and internet meme has been a salt sprinkling icon since 2017.

His workouts (and body fat percentage of 5.8%) provide muscle-building inspiration for many around the world.

[video width="640" height="1136" mp4="https://www.dmarge.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/WhatsApp-Video-2020-11-30-at-8.46.56-AM.mp4"][/video]

Last week he showed a breakfast hack to potentially increasing those gains.

This week Salt Bae took to Instagram to reveal a strange sit up technique that could help you achieve similar abs of steel.

Adding a resistance band to your situps, to make the sitting down part harder.

[video width="640" height="1136" mp4="https://www.dmarge.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/WhatsApp-Video-2020-11-30-at-8.46.19-AM.mp4"][/video]

While most gym-goers will have tried the opposite – and vastly more popular – approach of holding a weight to make coming up more difficult, Salt Bae's approach (or at least his rippling stomach) perhaps shows why it pays to think outside the box.

Though some experts are dubious as to the benfits of sit ups, claiming six packs are really made in the kitchen, others (see here and here) spruik the benefits of incorporating a resistance band into your core workout.

No one, as far as we can tell, has been seen doing the exact move Salt Bae does in the videos above, however.

In any case, Salt Bae also showed off a few more conventional exercises, including his version of hip thrusts...

[video width="640" height="1136" mp4="https://www.dmarge.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/WhatsApp-Video-2020-11-30-at-8.46.57-AM.mp4"][/video]

... and squats with his back against the wall.

[video width="640" height="1136" mp4="https://www.dmarge.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/WhatsApp-Video-2020-11-30-at-8.46.56-AM-1.mp4"][/video]

There's your Monday fitness inspiration, served hot.

Lufthansa’s New Concept Solves Most Stressful Aspect Of Economy Flying

November 29, 2020DMARGE, fashion, mens fasionNo comments

2020 has been ripe with innovation. From futuristic formula one seat designs attempting to revolutionise business class to skeletal economy seats purporting to solve 'legroom rage' it's been a whirl.

That's before we mention the double-decker economy seats potentially ready to make germaphobes' dreams come true, and the touchless travel trend. Suffice to say: there have been more new inventions and designs reported on than you can throw a plastic shield at.

The phenomenon doesn't appear to be slowing down, with Lufthansa now looking to make better use of its existing amenities (and the lower levels of demand now seen in the skies) to solve arguably the most stressful part of economy flying.

Think it's not being able to sleep? Think again.

We'll put the stress point like this: imagine walking into the depths of cattle class on a late-night flight. You've just flown from London to Dubai, have waited two hours in the airport, and are now boarding your second flight to Sydney. You walk onto the plane, all the way to the back. All is dark, and there are three or four completely free rows.

Who gets them? The first to throw off their seat belt and claim them once you're at cruising altitude, of course.

It's a bitter race, with some attempting to steal away these coveted seats from the very start (and often but not always being told to return to their designated seats by flight attendants) and others sharpening their nails and stretching their legs, limbering themselves up for the 'seatbelt sign off' dash.

This moment of madness on Lufthansa may soon be a thing of the past.

"The German airline is trialing its new Sleeper's Row concept on its Frankfurt, Germany to São Paulo, Brazil flights from November 18 to mid-December," CNN reported on Saturday.

The concept? You'll now have to pay for what you used to fight over for free. But at least you'll be able to guarantee it.

Amirite, @talkairlines? Skycouch is trademarked so “sleeper’s row” it is? https://t.co/JBcty0Lu9x

— G-DLEE AVIATION 2020 (@JournoDannyAero) November 23, 2020

"The idea is passengers traveling in economy can nab a row of three to four seats, and then stretch out across them, replicating the experience of a lie-flat business class bed. Travelers will be given a blanket, pillow and seat topper to maximize the comfort, and also offered priority boarding," CNN reports.

"Those interested must purchase the upgrade at the airport, either during check-in or at the gate, for $260 [USD] on top of the price of their original ticket."

Lufthansa isn't the first airline to try this. Air New Zealand launched its Economy Skycoach – a similar premise – in 2011 and "Airbus premiered its Settee Corner concept, which takes the economy three-seat-configuration as the inspiration for a lie-flat, sofa-style luxury seat that would take up less space -- and weigh less -- than the average Business Class seat" in 2019, CNN reports.

On top of that, earlier this year, Air New Zealand took this economy lie flat bed concept to new heights, filing patent and trademark applications for the Economy Skynest invention which – if commercially implemented, would see economy passengers able to rent the 'Skynest' pods to sleep in by the hour.

Read more about Lufthansa's Sleeper Row here.

David Beckham Confuses & Delights Watch Fans With Upside Down ‘People’s Rolex’

November 29, 2020DMARGE, fashion, mens fasionNo comments

Getting David Beckham to support your brand is basically winning yourself the license to print cash. From whisky to watches, the man is bankable.

He'll also go the extra mile when it comes to promoting your product, as his most recent advertisement for Tudor demonstrates.

A few hours ago, the 45-year-old football legend shared a brilliantly cheesy photo of himself on Instagram, making mulled wine in anticipation of Christmas, all smiles as he stirs the pot. He's also flexing a Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G (ref. M79363N-0002)... Which he's wearing upside-down so that we lucky watch fans can get a good look at the thing. The 'People's Rolex', indeed.

We don't know if this is ultra-considerate, weird as hell, or if he's just accidentally put his watch on the wrong way. We hope it's that first one.

The Black Bay Chrono S&G is an unusual watch that not only blends the Black Bay's diving heritage with the motorsports-inspired functionality of a chronograph but also blends steel and gold. It's certainly distinctive, and unlike any other watch in Tudor's (or even its big brother Rolex's) lineup. For 7,900 AUD, you can get the Black Bay Chrono S&G with either one of Tudor's famously comfortable fabric straps, or an innovative leather strap that features a removable 'bund'. A two-tone steel and gold bracelet jacks the price up to 9,540 AUD.

Bund straps, first worn by German pilots in the 1930s ('Bund' being an abbreviation for Bundesrepublik Deutschland, or the Federal German Republic in English) feature a protective leather backing and look almost like mini trouser belts. It was a purely functional innovation: the leather backing meant that pilots wouldn't be scalded or frozen by the metal caseback of their watches when flying... Plus the leather has the added advantage of absorbing extra sweat and protecting the watch from moisture ingress.

Bund straps saw a style revival in the 60s and 70s, in no small part due to the influence of Hollywood heartthrobs (and well-known figures in the watch world) Paul Newman and Steve McQueen. These days, bund straps are a rather controversial style choice, the horological equivalent of Crocs. But a retro-inspired two-tone watch like this Tudor suits the bund pretty well, we'll admit.

Bund It Like Beckham, we suppose?

The Cold Hard Truth About Buying An $80 Smartphone

November 29, 2020DMARGE, fashion, mens fasionNo comments

Much is to be said about the current smartphone landscape. For the most part, it's a duopoly, with smartphone users assigning (or as the case may be, resigning) themselves to either Apple or Samsung camps. There are, of course, other manufacturers such as Google, OnePlus, LG, Alcatel et al. all of whom rely on Google's Android smartphone operating systems, occasionally tweaking them to provide a unique user experience.

Once you have decided which ~~cult~~ camp you want to join – Android or iOS – the smartphone you actually end up buying could well be determined by your budget. It's no secret that Apple charges a premium for its devices, and Samsung, too, can command in excess of $2,000 for its latest and greatest devices. Here at DMARGE we've been hands-on with a $199 smartphone with good results, proving if you don't need the absolute best features from a phone – but rather just the ability to send messages, update your Instagram feed and take some passable photos – you don't need to spend big bucks.

We wanted to test that theory even further, and while we were browsing Wish in search of a fake Richard Mille, we also noticed a smartphone being advertised for $80. Curious as to how well (or poorly) an $80 phone would perform, we clicked 'buy'. Just over a week later our device arrived. We've now spent enough time with it to bring to you a comprehensive analysis as to why you really shouldn't ever spend $80 on a smartphone. Ever. Seriously.

We'll start with some good news. This unbranded phone – called the Note30 (homage to, or taking inspiration from, Samsung and Huawei, you decide) – doesn't look that bad (although, it looks nothing like the picture on the listing, which shows it to have virtually no bezel whatsoever around the display. The phone we received is decidedly more chunky).

It does, however, follow the current smartphone trend for notches in the top middle of the screen for the front-facing camera, a large display to dominate the front (which doesn't sit tidy and flush with the casing) and a triple-lens camera around the back (which can also be considered chunky). The two-tone black and blue colour scheme is, dare we say, handsome. On looks alone, you wouldn't assume this smartphone costs less than a case of Stone & Wood.

As soon as you use it, however, you can immediately tell where money hasn't been spent.

As a disclaimer, we'll admit that we've become so used to more high-spec smartphones of late, that anything that doesn't match their quality will be seen as bad. But, we think most people will be in agreement with our judgement of the 'Unbranded Note30'.

The screen provides an immediate gateway into the low quality of this device. It's not sharp, it's not colourful and if you tilt the phone so much as a few degrees, the viewing angles are so terrible that you legitimately cannot see what's being displayed. Granted, you're going to spend much of your time looking straight at the thing, and when you do, it's not the most awful experience ever, the (claimed) HD resolution of the 6.1-inch doing its best to return an image that can just about be classed as 'viewable'. But if you ever have to adjust the angle to account for lighting conditions, you may as well start donating to blindness charities, since you've now experienced life in their shoes.

Another word on the display, and potential insight into how Unbranded has managed to make their phone so cheap. There are adverts on the home screen and we also experienced pop-up ads appear when we messing around with the settings, something we can't say we've ever experienced on any other phone. It was with this in mind that we decided it best to not sign into any social media accounts or add any card details. You know, just in case.

As for the general user experience. Again, we're not going to give the Unbranded a glowing review. It's no Usain Bolt. The product listing claims it runs on Android 10, the latest version of Google's operating system. And, while menus and navigation will be familiar to members of the Android Army, we'd wager even cadets would have a hard time maintaining patience when flicking between menus, screens and apps. We know, we're accustomed to superfast multitasking from our phones nowadays, but the Note30 kind of takes the piss. It's frustratingly slow, to the point we quite literally couldn't stand to use it for a few days. But, for review purposes, we returned to it and heroically persevered.

To put this all into context, we tried loading up a generic movie trailer on YouTube, selected full-screen mode, which didn't cause the trailer to fill the entire screen, instead, adopting a more 4:3 ratio with large black (in this case very washed out black) bars either side. The trailer never ran smoothly, instead choosing to stutter along to a point where we gave up trying after attempting 10-seconds worth of playtime, despite being connected to a solid Wi-Fi connection. And as for sound, well, the less said the better.

And if you want to browse the internet, prepare to be greeted by results like this.

[caption id="attachment_276865" align="aligncenter" width="460"] A lifetime to load. No images. Yet more adverts.[/caption]

One of the biggest features that differentiate phones today is the camera. Some devices come with as many as four camera lenses in the pursuit of picture-perfect photography, and advanced image processing that allows flagship devices to rival dedicated handheld cameras. The fact the Note30 arrived with three lenses piqued our interest. Could this be a redeeming feature?

No.

"Adopt dual-core sensor, and introduce AI artificial intelligence, post-quick double-shot, add image Rubik's cube technology, and then cooperate with AI scene camera. AI backlight photo, AI portrait composition let the mobilephone become your professional imaging team [sic]." The listing relates.

Bullshit.

Unless you're someone who actually prefers washed out photos with no life, depth or detail of any kind, you'll want to look elsewhere next time you're shopping for a new device. A mental image of a landscape, a dog you see in the street, or a night out with friends will be more rewarding.

Speaking of rewarding, after playing around with the settings (and getting past adverts) we stumbled upon the setup screen for the built-in fingerprint scanner. However, unlike some other devices that have baked a scanner into a physical button on the front, back or side of their devices, this Unbranded Note30 has its scanner built into the screen. When we were presented with the prompt to place our finger on the screen for registering, we'll admit, we looked confused.

"There's no way the scanner is integrated with the screen", we cried. "Other, larger companies have been trying and failing to implement such technology for years". But, sure enough, the scanner is there and it works. It doesn't respond immediately when you place your finger on it to unlock, but this is one area we can happily forgive it. It's like when a puppy destroys your home but then gives you the puppy dog eyes you simply can't get mad at. The fingerprint scanner is the equivalent of those eyes.

What's more, you're also given the option of unlocking the thing with your face. Once again we were pretty surprised that this phone had such a feature. The listing, however, claims it's able to "accurately recognise faces all the time, bringing a science fiction unlocking experience", going as far to say it will recognise your face in considerably dark conditions.

We beg to differ.

It's possibly the only redeeming feature (along with dual SIM-card slots and a spot for expanding the onboard storage), however, and with previous reviews, such as those for cars or tropical getaways, we usually find ourselves sad to give the loan vehicle back or to have to jump on a plane and head home. In the case of the Unbranded Note30, we'll be burying it to the bottom of our man-drawer for the rest of eternity. We wouldn't even gift it to someone else, not even our worst enemy.

We do understand, however, that people in less-developed countries need to rely on phones like these in order to stay connected to the world. A 2019 survey conducted by Pew Research found a median of 53% of adults in third-world countries has access to a smartphone, with nearly all users claiming the "internet has had a positive impact on education."

So no, the Unbranded Note30 is unlikely to find love in the developed world, but for those less fortunate, it could prove to be invaluable.

Why 2020 Became The Year Australians Started Buying Luxury Watches Online

November 28, 2020DMARGE, fashion, mens fasionNo comments

This feature was produced in partnership with Kennedy Watches & Jewellery.

Australians have always been quick to adopt new technologies, particularly when it comes to shopping. While contactless payments have become part of day to day life in the Land Down Under, it’s still an alien way to pay for many Americans, for example.

But one innovation that Aussies have been somewhat more sluggish in adopting has been online shopping – more precisely, luxury online shopping. We’re comfortable with the idea of buying sneakers or groceries online, but jewellery or watches? That’s another story.

But that’s about to change, in part thanks to Australia’s leading luxury watch retailer, Kennedy.

Kennedy’s new e-commerce platform, launched earlier this year, has been the shot in the arm Australian luxury shoppers need. Not only is the website itself easy to use and a feast for the eyes, but it’s underpinned by unparalleled real-world customer service, elevating the often impersonal online shopping experience beyond simply adding a product to basket and hoping it actually arrives in the mail.

Buying a fine watch is a special experience; one that Kennedy has gone to great lengths to ensure remains special even when shopping with them online. Their highly-trained boutique staff treat your watch with the respect it deserves, making sure it’s spotless and beautifully packaged before it’s sent on its way. Personal secured delivery is just part of the service. Kennedy offers complimentary shipping and returns on all orders, but you can also choose to pick up your new watch in store – whatever works for you.

But the real reason Kennedy’s new platform is so good is that it serves as a wake-up call for both Australians and other luxury retailers. For the competition, it’s a clarion call to step up their game. For consumers, it’s the sign that online shopping is finally getting the treatment it deserves: no longer is the digital experience playing second fiddle to the brick and mortar experience. Buying watches online is no longer a dicey prospect – and it’s only going to get better.

“Given our representation in bricks and mortar, expanding our online and digital presence through the introduction of an interactive e-commerce platform felt like a natural progression to diversify our service offering,” Kennedy Vice President of Operations, Sharon Gomez relates.

Boutiques are nice, but getting silver service from the comfort of your own home? That’s something to set your watch to.

Discover the new Kennedy website and luxury e-commerce experience here.

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‘Race To The Bottom’: The First Date Faux Pas Men Commit Too Often

November 28, 2020DMARGE, fashion, mens fasionNo comments

For all our pretences, we're all just 'monkeys in shoes'.

When it comes to modern dating culture, we still find ourselves being held back by our worst instincts: whether that's making foolish assumptions on social media or not extending the courtesy of ordering someone an Uber after a one-night stand, we're our own worst enemies. More to the point, we're often guilty of hurting people's feelings when we should really know better, as this news.com.au story relates.

Dating columnist Jana Hocking shared her experience with what's she's dubbed 'Red Ferrari Syndrome' – a habit many Aussie men are guilty of.

"You know when you’re casually walking along the street and all of a sudden the traffic lights turn green and a gorgeous, shiny, red Ferrari drives past. You stop what you are doing and are momentarily distracted by the glory of it," she explains.

"Now apply that to a date. Perhaps you’re sitting at a bar having a jolly good time, when suddenly a glamazon walks past... his jaw drops to the floor and his whole body turns to watch the magnificent creature walk past. Perhaps he may even get off the stool he is sitting on and turn towards the passing women in an extra thirsty bid to make eye contact..."

"Now I know what you’re thinking. Surely, someone wouldn’t be that obvious. They would just have a quick passing glance and try to make eye contact with you again in the hope that you didn’t notice the drool coming from their mouth. Unfortunately, my recent experience with ‘Red Ferrari Syndrome’... went EXACTLY like that... I’ve even suffered from it myself. But to literally get up off your stool and turn your whole body in a bid to connect eyes... Bravo for having the audacity to do it, but it’s safe to say that the date was now dead in the water."

Hocking relates that there's nothing wrong with a "cheeky glance", but to be so brazen – especially if it happens multiple times on the same date, or if you're well into dating – is just the height of poor taste.

DMARGE sought expert counsel on this trend, speaking exclusively with Heidi Gee, Sydney-based relationship coach and sexologist.

Gee concurs that "we all notice someone beautiful, [but] I think if you are on a date it's important to be respectful, especially if this is not your first date and you like the person."

"I'm not saying don't look but at least have the decency not to get up off your chair and turn your whole attention to the person you are perving on."

He took me to a restaurant and went to the bathroom a lot and stepped out often to take calls. I thought it was weird, and then the waiter said “you know he’s at another table with a blonde woman right?”. he had 2 first dates at once #worstfirstdate

— Kels (@see_kel) January 10, 2018

While men having 'Red Ferrari Syndrome', a 'wandering eye' (or whatever you want to call it) is hardly a recent phenomenon, there's an argument to be made that modern dating culture has made it a more prolific issue. The downside to the convenience of dating apps and a more laissez-faire attitude towards relationships in our society is that it somewhat undermines the value of – or the incentive to put as much effort into – courtesy whilst dating.

It's that classic 'fear of missing out': we're always looking for the next best thing, often to the detriment of the here and now. We asked Heidi if she thought that the rise of dating apps has been responsible for a watering down of dating etiquette, and she had an interesting response.

"I think dating apps make it 'easier', in a sense, to keep looking in case there is 'something better'. It can also be a way of trying to forget about an ex by putting yourself out there. I'm not saying dating apps are bad but I do think that it can be misused (or abused if you like)... taking the time to get to know someone [and] interpersonal communication skills [are becoming] less important..."

"People use dating apps for different reasons and I think it's important to ask yourself, 'what is it I want to get out of this?' Once you know and can honestly answer that question then you need to be honest with the person you're on a date with/communicating with about what it is you want."

She also shared what you should do if you've been caught out with a bit of Red Ferrari Syndrome yourself.

"Acknowledge how it made the person feel and apologise if it made them feel uncomfortable. When I've been in a similar situation with a partner who had a wandering eye, I would admire the person they were perving on but also set healthy boundaries so there wasn't any sneaking or disrespectful behaviour that made either of us feel uncomfortable or angry, e.g. 'oh she's gorgeous' or 'I like her dress'."

The reason Red Ferrari Syndrome is so common is because it's perfectly natural. Our brains are hard-wired to seek out the most desirable mate – but if you can tie a tie and do your tax returns, you can certainly control your base urges. But if you do commit the dating faux pas of having an unsubtle look at someone else, there's a way to recover.

The big takeaway? Be classy, gents.

Celebrity Butcher Forced To Revolutionise The Way Australians Buy Meat… & It’s Working

November 27, 2020DMARGE, fashion, mens fasionNo comments

It's been a tougher year than a cheap Coles steak. But amid the cutbacks and crises, there have been moments of innovation. Some have been particularly inspiring.

After speaking in June to Vincent Lombino, Group Director of Food and Beverage at Ovolo Hotels, about the intriguing silver linings imminent for the luxury hotel industry coming out of Covid, this week DMARGE spoke to one of Australia's better-known butchers: Anthony Puharich.

Mr Puharich is the Chief Executive Officer at Vic's Premium Quality Meat Group – Australia's premier meat wholesaling business. We spoke to him to understand how Vic's has weathered this tumultuous year.

Though – like for most – 2020 pulled the ripcord on such notions as 'normal profit' (across most industries), it has also fast-forwarded innovation which may never have happened at such pace otherwise.

Demonstrating the adage 'necessity is the mother of innovation' Mr Puharich explained how his company got about 18 months of (e-commerce) work done in eight days.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Vic's Meat Market (@vicsmeatmarket)

"On the 24th of March.. restaurants, cafes, clubs, pubs, you name it had until midday to shut their doors on the back of Covid lockdowns," Puharich told us.

This came on the back of an announcement by Scott Morrison and Gladys Berejiklian on the 22nd – a total of two days' notice.

"We launched our online business on Wednesday the 1st of April. We launched very quickly... because on that 24th of March we saw our business fall off a cliff overnight."

"What's crazy is that we'd been talking about going 'ecom' for probably 18 months but did nothing, but in eight days literally completed a whole new business."

"I'm sure it's a common story a lot of businesses will share – you never waste a good crisis. On the back of Covid, it's amazing how quickly you can hustle."

Funnily enough, Vic's Premium Quality Meat Group ended up launching its e-commerce platform on April Fool's Day. But not by design.

"This was by absolute coincidence... but we launched the business on April Fool's Day."

"I was that frazzled... I didn't know whether it was April Fool's Day or Christmas Day. I was in panic, survival mode, in the trenches, in the weeds, in a war zone, looking back the fact it actually launched on April Fool's Day is a joke in itself because it's been super successful for us and literally kept our head above water."

"We had no expectations and no experience in this space. We didn't have people within our business that were experienced in e-commerce. I didn't have time to reach out and get advice from so called experts. So we just launched."

"What we did know – and believe in – was in meat, and our quality and in our brand offering. We had all those big ticks but had never had any experience in this space."

Despite that, Vic's e-commerce platform "launched and did seven or eight thousand dollars worth of business in the first 24 hours with no clue, no advertising, a bit of social media and that sort of stuff and the rest is history."

"We've done more than 30,000 orders thus far."

It hasn't all been beer and ~~skittles~~ sausages, however. Putting the decline into perspective Puharich told DMARGE Vic's was (and is) a very significant business, dealing with a majority of the best-regarded chefs and restaurants in the country, with a customer base of 12 hundred hotels, airlines; top restaurants, pubs etc."

This in mind, even though the e-commerce shift has been a success, it hasn't been enough to fill the gap.

"There was 30 tonne of meat leaving our facility every day [pre Covid]."

"Online hasn't filled that gap. What it's done more importantly is keep our business going."

"It's helped farmers and producers keep going – without them the whole country would be f*cked and they do it tough as it is."

"It's also kept our staff in jobs and that was ultimately the number one priority – just to keep the business going and to keep our head above water and to keep things moving in the right direction."

"30,000 since (that first order) in the last few months... there's nobody that's done that in meat in Australia... just as importantly it's given us real opportunity and hope."

Puharich also told DMARGE that even though the e-commerce shift was not exactly voluntary, he now considers it a crucial part of the business and an area for continued innovation and investment down the line.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Vic's Meat Market (@vicsmeatmarket)

"We'd been talking about it for 18 months but now it's a reality and we can see that there's a lot of opportunities around e-commerce. It's something we're going to massively focus on going forward."

"We've discovered this new sales channel that never existed in our business. Before the bulk of our business relied on supplying chefs, restaurants etc. which we're very grateful for (and we've still got a couple of retail stores in Victor Churchill and the Fish Markets) but now we've opened up our brand and our business to the whole country because we're delivering nationally."

"You don't need to live in Woollahra or Sydney just to access it. You can be in Broome, Cairns, Wollongong, and have access."

"Our logistics partner now delivers to 92% of the postcodes in Australia."

Yes: there have been leaps and bounds, but in an industry saturated with cheap products and slick websites, it's not necessarily easy to stand out.

But while the drop shippers of the world cut corners on their products and blow their entire budget on marketing, Vic's is determined to stay true to its values.

"We've got e-commerce managers, SEO specialists, in-house content creation, photography, how to videos... it's one thing to launch an e-commerce business; it's another to keep feeding it.

"It's like building a business from scratch irrespective of our 25 year's experience in butchery and meat."

"The last 6-7 months has just been survival, hand to mouth type stuff, now it's about us being a lot more savvy and serious because now we've created a community. What we're doing has really resonated with people so the question now is: 'how do we keep the momentum going?'"

"That's just not us [dropshipping]. We stand behind our product, we source it, cut it pack it, handle every single aspect of it. There's... huge control with what we're doing. We're not outsourcing any aspect of what we're doing outside of our logistics – and even that's scary for us."

"We're trying to control every touchpoint and experience a customer has because unlike many others we need repeat business. We want people to buy from us more than once."

"We want people to buy as regularly as possible and that's a KPI we measure our success by – 64% of our customers are repeat customers, which is a big number in the 'ecom' world – they say the unicorn is to get at least 60% to be repeat business."

How does Vic's achieve this? "We try to understand our customers," Puharich tells us. "What they like and don't like, we refine the user experience, build that engagement and loyalty, and create content."

What's next for Australia's meat scene? Only time (and sausage orders will tell). But with consumers turning more and more to subscription-based services for everything from razors and beer to music and entertainment, we'd bet our last pork chop this isn't the last time you'll hear about meat being sold online.

Monday 30 November 2020

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